Sabunchu, Azerbaijan: where oil, railways and flea market meet. Photo report

JAMnews

Baku

Sabunchu flea market in Azerbaijan

Sabunchu is one of Baku’s historically and culturally rich districts. This settlement has a long-standing history tied to the oil industry and railways and is also renowned for its unique flea market.

In this article, we take a virtual journey through Sabunchu, exploring its vibrant market and discovering its history, character, and local way of life.

The main attraction of Sabunchu is undoubtedly its market. Established in the late 19th century, it is increasingly drawing the attention of tourists eager to experience the “real” Baku.

This market is also known as the “flea market,” the “bird market,” and even the “dead man's market.” The name “flea market” emerged in the 1990s, while “dead man's market” refers to the fact that second-hand, previously used items are sold here. You can find virtually anything at this market. — This market is also known as the “flea market,” the “bird market,” and even the “dead man’s market.” The name “flea market” emerged in the 1990s, while “dead man’s market” refers to the fact that second-hand, previously used items are sold here. You can find virtually anything at this market.

History of Sabunchu

Sabunchu became an important hub in the late 19th century thanks to the development of the oil industry. By the early 20th century, around 35% of Baku’s oil was being extracted here. The construction of a railway line in 1880 also turned Sabunchi into a key junction for suburban trains. This historical background gave the district its distinct character.

The Nobel brothers, who played a major role in developing Azerbaijan’s oil sector, also left their mark on Sabunchu. Some of the buildings constructed for oil workers and their families still stand, including former canteens. However, with the arrival of displaced families during the war in the 1990s, these historic buildings changed: new rooms were added, altering their original appearance.

Sabunchu, Azerbaijan: where oil, railways and flea market meet. Photo report

Nobel settlement, built for oil workers and their families. This building used to house a canteen.

Sabunchu “flea market” — also known as “dead man’s market”

The history of the Sabunchu Bazaar dates back to the late 19th century. Today, it draws the attention of both locals and tourists eager to see the “real” Baku. One of the market’s standout features is its bird trade — mostly pigeons, though other domestic animals are occasionally sold as well. Unfortunately, there are occasional reports of stolen dogs being sold.

Equally noteworthy are the market’s colorful characters. One such figure is a vendor named Qurban, known as “Keroglu,” who has become a local legend. His warm personality and skill with the accordion turn a trip to the market into a true performance. Another memorable figure is Alkhaz, a barber who has been working for over 50 years. Closely connected to the local Jewish community, he even speaks Hebrew. His barber shop, along with the vintage chair and mirror he uses, preserves traces of the past.

The market also serves as a social hub for locals. On Sundays especially, pigeon breeders from across Baku gather here. The market’s unique atmosphere — full of noise and bustle — stands in stark contrast to the quiet streets of the settlement. After the clamor dies down, it’s as if time in Sabunchu pauses.

Sabunchu and its flea market hold a special place on Baku’s historical and cultural map. This neighborhood, rich in its ties to the oil industry and railways, also stands out for its vibrant market culture and close-knit community. There’s something here for everyone — from pigeon enthusiasts to tourists eager to experience a piece of the past. The Sabunchu market is truly a living, breathing corner of Baku.

Most people come to the market for birds, though other domestic animals are sometimes sold as well — there have even been reports of stolen dogs being resold here.

This is Qurban, a true legend of the local market. His moustache earned him the nickname “Keroglu.” He often plays the accordion willingly, especially for visitors. — This is Qurban, a true legend of the local market. His mustache earned him the nickname “Keroglu.” He often plays the accordion willingly, especially for visitors.

Alkhas has been working as a barber for over 50 years — his chair and mirror have been preserved since those early days. One day, a regular customer brought him brandy and sweets. Surprised, Alkhas asked, “What’s the occasion?” The customer replied, “Today marks exactly 45 years since I first got my hair cut by you.”

On Sundays, pigeon breeders from all over Baku gather here.

People jokingly say that the Sabunchu market is a miracle market — it's never caught fire, unlike many other chaotic markets in Azerbaijan where fires are a frequent occurrence. — People jokingly say that the Sabunchu market is a miracle market — it’s never caught fire, unlike many other chaotic markets in Azerbaijan where fires are a frequent occurrence.

Vagif is a sewing machine repairman. He recalls: “One day an elderly customer came up to me and said, ‘A home without a sewing machine is like a home without an owner. A decent woman wouldn’t run to a tailor over every little thing.”

Farhad was the man who opened the first optician’s shop in Sabunchu. He says it was elderly revolutionaries who first approached him with the request: “We’re old now — we need glasses.”

Life in Sabunchu

Beyond the market, Sabunchu is marked by a quieter, more traditional way of life. Neighbors remain closely connected, often spending time playing dominoes and backgammon.

Sabunchu is also home to an area once known as the “Jewish Quarter.” During the oil boom, the local Jewish community—originally from Quba’s Red Settlement—settled here. Today, however, no Jewish residents remain.