{"id":3991,"date":"2016-07-06T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2016-07-06T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/jam-news.net\/az\/erm%c9%99nistandan-gurcustana-velosipedl%c9%99\/"},"modified":"2021-02-02T01:50:39","modified_gmt":"2021-02-01T21:50:39","slug":"erm%c9%99nistandan-gurcustana-velosipedl%c9%99","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jam-news.net\/az\/erm%c9%99nistandan-gurcustana-velosipedl%c9%99\/","title":{"rendered":"Erm\u0259nistandan G\u00fcrc\u00fcstana velosipedl\u0259"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u015e\u0259kill\u0259rini \u00e7oxlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n xat\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 k\u00fc\u00e7\u0259 r\u0259ssam\u0131 v\u0259 dizayner Vasili Grino on \u00f6z\u00fc kimi c\u0259sar\u0259tli o\u011flanla birlikd\u0259 Erm\u0259nistan v\u0259 G\u00fcrc\u00fcstan\u0131 velosipedl\u0259 g\u0259zdi. \u0130ki \u0259n qonaqp\u0259rv\u0259r \u00f6lk\u0259d\u0259 600 kilometr yol, \u00e7ad\u0131rda v\u0259 camaat\u0131n h\u0259y\u0259tind\u0259 gec\u0259l\u0259m\u0259, milisl\u0259 \u00fcnsiyy\u0259t, yolsuzluq, d\u0259f edil\u0259n mane\u0259l\u0259r \u2013 dey\u0259s\u0259n, Vasili h\u0259iq\u0259t\u0259n d\u0259 bu \u00f6lk\u0259l\u0259rin ruhunu tuta bildi. Fotolar\u0131 n\u0259z\u0259rd\u0259n ke\u00e7irib, \u00e7ox maraql\u0131 hekay\u0259ni dinl\u0259yirik.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00d6t\u0259n il 10 dostumla birlikd\u0259 Vyanadan Tivata (Monteneqro) q\u0259d\u0259r 1500 kilometri velosipedl\u0259 q\u0259t etdik v\u0259 bir il sonra may bayramlar\u0131nda biz bir daha h\u0259min s\u0131nanm\u0131\u015f u\u015faqlarla birlikd\u0259 harasa getm\u0259k q\u0259rar\u0131na g\u0259ldik. Se\u00e7imimiz Erm\u0259nistan v\u0259 G\u00fcrc\u00fcstana d\u00fc\u015fd\u00fc, \u0259vv\u0259ll\u0259r burada he\u00e7 vaxt olmam\u0131\u015fam v\u0259 niy\u0259s\u0259 bu iki \u00f6lk\u0259y\u0259 s\u0259f\u0259rimi h\u0259mi\u015f\u0259 t\u0259xir\u0259 salm\u0131\u015fam. Biletl\u0259ri ald\u0131q, velosipedl\u0259ri qabla\u015fd\u0131rd\u0131q v\u0259 hava liman\u0131nda g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fd\u00fck.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Yerevan<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Yerevana \u00e7atandan sonra ilk n\u00f6vb\u0259d\u0259 qabla\u015fd\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f velosipedl\u0259rin oldu\u011fu b\u00f6y\u00fck qutular\u0131 axtarma\u011fa ba\u015flad\u0131q ki, maly\u00fckl\u0259y\u0259n f\u0259hl\u0259l\u0259rin da\u015f\u0131nma zaman\u0131 he\u00e7 n\u0259yi z\u0259d\u0259l\u0259m\u0259diyin\u0259 \u0259min olaq. Qutular\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131b, komponentl\u0259rin tam qaydas\u0131nda oldu\u011funa \u0259min olandan sonra t\u0259l\u0259sm\u0259d\u0259n yerli sakinl\u0259rin heyr\u0259tli bax\u0131\u015flar\u0131 alt\u0131nda hava liman\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7ind\u0259c\u0259 velosipedl\u0259rimizi y\u0131\u011fma\u011fa ba\u015flad\u0131q. Bir \u00e7oxlar\u0131 yax\u0131nla\u015f\u0131b, velosipedl\u0259rimiz v\u0259 onlarla ba\u011fl\u0131 planlar\u0131m\u0131z bar\u0259d\u0259 x\u0259b\u0259r al\u0131rd\u0131lar, taksi s\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fcl\u0259ri ad\u0259ti \u00fczr\u0259 xidm\u0259tl\u0259rini t\u0259klif edir, ya\u015fl\u0131 bir ki\u015fi is\u0259 biz\u0259 \u0259n\u0259n\u0259vi xristian atributlar\u0131n\u0131 t\u0259qdim edirdi: xa\u00e7l\u0131 brelok b\u00fct\u00fcn s\u0259f\u0259r boyu dostum Leonidin s\u00fckan\u0131ndan as\u0131lm\u0131\u015fd\u0131, karton ikonalardan biri is\u0259 m\u0259nim ehtiyat hiss\u0259l\u0259ri olan \u00e7antamdad\u0131r.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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M\u00fcasir Yerevan 12 dair\u0259y\u0259 b\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fcr: A\u00e7apnyak, Arabkir, Avan, Davta\u015fen, Erebuni, Kanaker-Zeytun, Kentron, Malatiya-Sebastiya, Nork-Mara\u015f, Nork-Nork, Nubara\u015fen, \u015eenqavit – bunlar da \u00f6z n\u00f6vb\u0259sind\u0259 m\u0259h\u0259ll\u0259l\u0259r\u0259 b\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fcr. Bir \u00e7ox evl\u0259rd\u0259 v\u0259 onlar\u0131n aralar\u0131nda paltar k\u0259ndiri \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn diyirc\u0259kl\u0259r g\u00f6zl\u0259nib, insanlar is\u0259 Kr\u0131mda v\u0259 bir \u00e7ox post-sovet \u00f6lk\u0259l\u0259rind\u0259 oldu\u011fu kimi, \u00e7\u0259kinm\u0259d\u0259n adi panel binalara biti\u015fik m\u0259nzill\u0259r tikirl\u0259r. Biz m\u0259rk\u0259zd\u0259 yerl\u0259\u015f\u0259n \u00a0yar\u0131mzirz\u0131mi hosteld\u0259 m\u0259skunla\u015fd\u0131q.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yerli sakinl\u0259r biz\u0259 ba\u015fa sald\u0131lar ki, Yerevanda v\u0259 \u00fcmumiyy\u0259tl\u0259 b\u00fct\u00fcn Erm\u0259nistanda su \u00e7ox keyfiyy\u0259tlidir v\u0259 onu krandan, ist\u0259nil\u0259n kolonkadan v\u0259 ya \u015f\u0259h\u0259rd\u0259 \u00e7oxlu sayda olan f\u0259vvar\u0259l\u0259rd\u0259n i\u00e7m\u0259k olar. Yerlil\u0259r gelendvagenl\u0259ri \u00e7ox sevirl\u0259r, \u015f\u0259h\u0259rd\u0259 onlar\u0131n say\u0131 \u00e7oxdur, gelendvagen\u0259 pulu \u00e7atmayan is\u0259 t\u00fcninq olunan Niva s\u00fcr\u00fcr.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u015e\u0259h\u0259ri ba\u015fdan aya\u011fa n\u0259z\u0259rd\u0259n ke\u00e7irm\u0259k \u00e7ox maraql\u0131yd\u0131, buna g\u00f6r\u0259 d\u0259 n\u00f6vb\u0259ti g\u00fcn\u00fc \u015f\u0259h\u0259ri velosipedl\u0259 g\u0259zm\u0259y\u0259 v\u0259 onu diqq\u0259tl\u0259 \u00f6yr\u0259nm\u0259y\u0259 h\u0259sr etdik. Bax\u0131\u015f meydan\u00e7alar\u0131ndan Ararat g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcrd\u00fc.\u00a0 1915-ci ild\u0259 erm\u0259ni soyq\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 qurbanlar\u0131n\u0131n xatir\u0259sin\u0259 tikil\u0259n Tsitsernakaberb (\u201cqaranqu\u015f qalas\u0131) b\u00f6y\u00fck t\u0259sir ba\u011f\u0131\u015flad\u0131. Erm\u0259ni xalq\u0131n\u0131n dir\u00e7\u0259lm\u0259k irad\u0259sini simvoliz\u0259 ed\u0259n 44 metrlik stela. B\u00fct\u00fcn stela boyu, b\u00fcn\u00f6vr\u0259sind\u0259n\u00a0 zirv\u0259sin\u0259 q\u0259d\u0259r onu iki yer\u0259 b\u00f6l\u0259n\u00a0 d\u0259rin yar\u011fan uzan\u0131r. Ox ki\u00e7ik hiss\u0259si Erm\u0259nistanda, b\u00f6y\u00fck hiss\u0259si is\u0259 diasporada ya\u015fayan par\u00e7alanm\u0131\u015f erm\u0259ni xalq\u0131n\u0131 simvoliz\u0259 edir. Stelan\u0131n yan\u0131nda postament \u2013 on iki b\u00f6y\u00fck da\u015f plit\u0259d\u0259n yaranan konus var. Konusun m\u0259rk\u0259zind\u0259, 1,5 metr d\u0259rinliyind\u0259 \u0259b\u0259di m\u0259\u015f\u0259l yan\u0131r.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Sevan<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

N\u00f6vb\u0259ti g\u00fcn qrupumuza reysi bizd\u0259n bir g\u00fcn sonra olan iki i\u015ftirak\u00e7\u0131m\u0131z da qo\u015fuldu. S\u0259h\u0259r saat 11-d\u0259 biz 11 n\u0259f\u0259rlik tam t\u0259rkibl\u0259 t\u0259z\u0259 tan\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n v\u0259 eyni zamanda hostel sahibinin ma\u015f\u0131n\u0131n\u0131n m\u00fc\u015fayi\u0259ti il\u0259 Yerevandan Sevan g\u00f6l\u00fcn\u0259 t\u0259r\u0259f h\u0259r\u0259k\u0259t etdik. 64 kilometr m\u0259saf\u0259d\u0259 9-11% qalxmaq \u00e7\u0259tin idi, b\u0259zi yerl\u0259rd\u0259 piyada qalxmal\u0131, velosipedl\u0259ri \u00e7antalarla birlikd\u0259 it\u0259l\u0259mi olurduq, ara-s\u0131ra ya\u011fan ya\u011f\u0131\u015f is\u0259 v\u0259ziyy\u0259ti bir az da a\u011f\u0131rla\u015fd\u0131r\u0131rd\u0131. 4\u00a0 de\u015filmi\u015f kameradan sonra 19:30-da biz d\u00fcnyada \u0259n soyuq g\u00f6ll\u0259rd\u0259n birinin yan\u0131na g\u0259lib \u00e7\u0131xd\u0131q.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Sevan g\u00f6l\u00fc s\u0259ma il\u0259 qon\u015fuluq ed\u0259n t\u0259bi\u0259t m\u00f6c\u00fcz\u0259sidir, da\u011flar\u0131n aras\u0131nda d\u0259niz s\u0259viyy\u0259sind\u0259n 1916 metr yuxar\u0131da yerl\u0259\u015fib. Suyu \u00e7ox t\u0259miz v\u0259 \u015f\u0259ffafd\u0131r: r\u0259vay\u0259t\u0259 g\u00f6r\u0259, ondan ancaq ulduzlar v\u0259 allahlar i\u00e7ib. Sevan\u0131n yarad\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131n bir ne\u00e7\u0259 f\u0259rziyy\u0259si var. \u00c7ox g\u00fcman ki, bu g\u00f6l onu \u0259hat\u0259 ed\u0259n Qeqam da\u011flar\u0131nda ba\u015f ver\u0259n vulkanik prosesl\u0259rin n\u0259tic\u0259sind\u0259\u00a0 bir ne\u00e7\u0259 min il bundan \u0259vv\u0259l yaran\u0131b. G\u00f6l\u00fcn c\u0259nub yamaclar\u0131nda \u015firin su il\u0259 dolu onlarla h\u0259nd\u0259si dair\u0259vi krater var. Sevana 28 ki\u00e7ik \u00e7ay ax\u0131r, bunlardan \u0259n b\u00f6y\u00fck olan Mayerik \u00e7ay\u0131n\u0131n uzunlu\u011fu 50 kilometrd\u0259n azd\u0131r. G\u00f6ld\u0259n ancaq Razdan \u00e7ay\u0131 \u00e7\u0131x\u0131r.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yerevandan olan tan\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131z bizim \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn gec\u0259l\u0259m\u0259y\u0259 yer tapd\u0131 \u2013 adi vaqonlardan d\u00fcz\u0259ldi\u015fmi\u015f ki\u00e7ik yay evl\u0259ri. Gec\u0259 havan\u0131n temperaturu -2 d\u0259r\u0259c\u0259 idi v\u0259 biz evl\u0259rd\u0259 yataq torbalar\u0131nda yatd\u0131q, \u00e7\u00fcnki b\u00fct\u00fcn yataq d\u0259yi\u015f\u0259yi n\u0259m idi.<\/span><\/p>\n

Erm\u0259nistan\u0131 g\u0259z\u0259rk\u0259n<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

S\u0259h\u0259r \u0130cevana t\u0259r\u0259f ir\u0259lil\u0259dik. H\u0259min g\u00fcn\u00fcn \u0259sas t\u0259\u0259ss\u00fcratlar\u0131ndan biri Sevan-Dilican qayas\u0131nda \u00fc\u00e7 kilometrlik tunel oldu, \u0130cevan yax\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda olan ilk spontan kempinq is\u0259 \u00e7ox g\u00f6z\u0259l idi. Bir az \u00fc\u015f\u00fcy\u0259r\u0259k yuxuya ged\u0259rk\u0259n m\u0259n h\u0259l\u0259 bizi qar\u015f\u0131da g\u00f6zl\u0259y\u0259n yoxu\u015flar\u0131n bu d\u0259r\u0259c\u0259d\u0259 dik olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bilmirdim.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

N\u00f6vb\u0259ti m\u0259nt\u0259q\u0259 Tavu\u015f vilay\u0259tind\u0259ki ki\u00e7ik Voskepar k\u0259ndi oldu. Erm\u0259nistandak\u0131 mar\u015frutumuzun \u00e7ox b\u00f6y\u00fck hiss\u0259si Az\u0259rbaycanla s\u0259rh\u0259d boyu uzand\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn yolda bir ne\u00e7\u0259 t\u0259rk edilmi\u015f anklav, \u00e7ox sayda gizl\u0259dilmi\u015f v\u0259 \u00fcst\u00fc \u00f6rt\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f\u00a0 h\u0259rbi texnika g\u00f6rd\u00fck. \u018fsg\u0259rl\u0259r g\u00fcl\u00fcms\u0259y\u0259r\u0259k \u0259l el\u0259yirdil\u0259r.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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G\u00fcrc\u00fcstanla s\u0259rh\u0259din yax\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda yerl\u0259\u015f\u0259n Noyemberyana \u00e7atanda art\u0131q gec\u0259 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcrd\u00fc. \u00c7ad\u0131r d\u00fc\u015f\u0259rg\u0259sini harada quraca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 bilmirdik, buna g\u00f6r\u0259 d\u0259 yax\u0131nl\u0131qda, da\u011f\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnd\u0259 \u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fcz\u0259 bir yer se\u00e7dik. Da\u011fa qalxanda m\u0259lum oldu ki, bura \u201cdrifterl\u0259rin sevdiyi yerdir, konstruktivizm ruhunda olan 1941-1945-ci ill\u0259r m\u00fcharib\u0259sin\u0259 h\u0259sr olunmu\u015f abid\u0259 d\u0259 burada yerl\u0259\u015fir.<\/span><\/p>\n

Bir q\u0259d\u0259r sonra polis ma\u015f\u0131n\u0131 g\u0259ldi v\u0259 v\u0259ziyy\u0259t s\u00fcrrealist xarakter alma\u011fa ba\u015flad\u0131. Uzun m\u00fcdd\u0259t yuxusuz qalan, ya da uyu\u015fdurucu q\u0259bul ed\u0259n adam kimi g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u0259n polis \u0259m\u0259kda\u015f\u0131 bizim kim oldu\u011fumuzu v\u0259 burada n\u0259 etdiyimizi ayd\u0131nla\u015fd\u0131rma\u011fa \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rd\u0131. Uzun s\u00fcr\u0259n sor\u011fu-sual v\u0259 dan\u0131\u015f\u0131qlardan sonra biz yava\u015f-yava\u015f \u00fcmumi dil tapma\u011fa ba\u015flad\u0131q v\u0259 adekvat \u00fcnsiyy\u0259t\u0259 ke\u00e7dik.\u00a0 Bir q\u0259d\u0259r sonra i\u00e7ind\u0259 Noyebberyan\u0131n polis r\u0259isi olan daha bir polis ma\u015f\u0131n\u0131 g\u0259ldi, biz\u0259 bu abid\u0259nin qapal\u0131 \u0259razisind\u0259 gec\u0259l\u0259m\u0259y\u0259 icaz\u0259 verdil\u0259r, amma \u0259vv\u0259lc\u0259 11 n\u0259f\u0259rin ham\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n b\u00fct\u00fcn pasport m\u0259lumatlar\u0131n\u0131 qeyd etdil\u0259r. \u0130zahat bel\u0259ydi: bizd\u0259 b\u0259z\u0259n at\u0259\u015f a\u00e7\u0131rlar, buna g\u00f6r\u0259 d\u0259 bel\u0259 olur.\u00a0 Bununla bel\u0259 iki polis ma\u015f\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ad\u0131r qurdu\u011fumuz yeri faralarla i\u015f\u0131qland\u0131r\u0131rd\u0131. Daha rahat gec\u0259l\u0259m\u0259yimiz \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn naryad g\u00f6nd\u0259rm\u0259yi d\u0259 t\u0259kif etdil\u0259r, amma biz ist\u0259m\u0259dik.<\/span><\/p>\n

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N\u00f6vb\u0259ti g\u00fcn b\u00fct\u00fcn \u0259\u015fyalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 g\u00fcn\u0259\u015f alt\u0131nda qurudandan sonra Tbilisi t\u0259r\u0259f\u0259 yolland\u0131q. Hava n\u0259hay\u0259t ki d\u00fcz\u0259ldi, \u015fosse \u0259la idi. G\u00fcrc\u00fcstanla s\u0259rh\u0259di kifay\u0259t q\u0259d\u0259r tez ke\u00e7dik, g\u00f6mr\u00fck i\u015f\u00e7isi is\u0259 pasportuma baxandan sonra dedi: \u201cBatkan\u0131z ki\u015fi adamd\u0131r. Nec\u0259dir? M\u0259n d\u0259 cavab verdim ki, y\u0259qin yax\u015f\u0131d\u0131r.<\/span><\/p>\n

B\u00fct\u00f6vl\u00fckd\u0259 Erm\u0259nistan xo\u015f t\u0259sir ba\u011f\u0131\u015flad\u0131, yolda rast g\u0259ldiyimiz b\u00fct\u00fcn erm\u0259nil\u0259r \u0259vv\u0259lc\u0259 bizi bigan\u0259likl\u0259 qar\u015f\u0131lasalar da, biz t\u0259r\u0259fd\u0259n minimal emosiya g\u00f6r\u0259n kimi,\u00a0 buna reaksiya verirdil\u0259r. \u0130nsanlar \u00e7ox vaxt \u201cN\u0259 k\u00f6m\u0259k ed\u0259 bil\u0259r\u0259m, qarda\u015f? sual\u0131 il\u0259 yax\u0131nla\u015f\u0131r, yax\u015f\u0131 yol dil\u0259yir, ma\u015f\u0131nlar \u0259limizi qald\u0131ran kimi yan\u0131m\u0131zda saxlay\u0131r, s\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fcl\u0259r is\u0259 daha rahat ke\u00e7\u0259 bil\u0259c\u0259yimiz yollar\u0131 ba\u015fa sal\u0131r, u\u015faqlar bizi \u0259hat\u0259y\u0259 al\u0131r, \u015fleml\u0259rimizi taxmaq, velosipedl\u0259rimizi s\u00fcrm\u0259k ist\u0259yirdil\u0259r, ya da sad\u0259c\u0259 g\u00fcl\u00fcrd\u00fcl\u0259r. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

G\u00fcrc\u00fcstan<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

S\u0259rh\u0259di ke\u00e7m\u0259zd\u0259n \u0259vv\u0259l biz yol k\u0259nar\u0131ndak\u0131 kafey\u0259 girib, arxada qalan dostlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 g\u00f6zl\u0259dik. Qeyd etm\u0259k laz\u0131md\u0131r ki, Erm\u0259nistan\u0131n h\u0259r yerind\u0259 v\u0259 G\u00fcrc\u00fcstanda \u00e7ox yerd\u0259 kafel\u0259rd\u0259 menyu \u015f\u0259rtidir, y\u0259ni siz x\u00fcsusi p\u0259hriz saxlad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 des\u0259z, siz\u0259 suda bi\u015firilmi\u015f kabab g\u0259tir\u0259c\u0259kl\u0259r. Bu, m\u0259nim \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn xo\u015f v\u0259 g\u00f6zl\u0259nilm\u0259z oldu. Porsiyalar \u00e7ox b\u00f6y\u00fck, yem\u0259kl\u0259r is\u0259 h\u0259dd\u0259n art\u0131q dadl\u0131d\u0131r. Art\u0131q s\u0259rh\u0259di ke\u00e7\u0259nd\u0259n 5 d\u0259qiq\u0259 sonra bu iki \u00f6lk\u0259 aras\u0131ndak\u0131 f\u0259rqi hiss edirs\u0259n. G\u00fcrc\u00fcstan\u0131n daha varl\u0131 \u00f6lk\u0259 oldu\u011fu hiss olunur. Bu, yollar\u0131n, ki\u00e7ik \u015f\u0259h\u0259r v\u0259 k\u0259ndl\u0259rin v\u0259ziyy\u0259tind\u0259n g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcr.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

G\u00fcrc\u00fcstan\u0131n n\u0259z\u0259r\u0259 \u00e7arpan f\u0259rqli c\u0259h\u0259ti d\u0259mir borulardan d\u00fcz\u0259ldilmi\u015f xristian xa\u00e7lar\u0131d\u0131r, onlar\u0131n tirl\u0259ri bizd\u0259ki kimi d\u00fcz deyil, bir q\u0259d\u0259r bucaq alt\u0131nda ox v\u0259 ya qu\u015f aya\u011f\u0131 kimi a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 bax\u0131rlar. Onlar m\u00fcq\u0259dd\u0259s Ninan\u0131n xa\u00e7lar\u0131 adlan\u0131r. R\u0259vay\u0259t\u0259 g\u00f6r\u0259, bu M\u0259ry\u0259m anan\u0131n m\u00fcq\u0259dd\u0259s Ninan\u0131 G\u00fcrc\u00fcstana g\u00f6nd\u0259rm\u0259zd\u0259n \u0259vv\u0259l verdiyi, \u00fcz\u00fcm t\u0259n\u0259kl\u0259rind\u0259n h\u00f6r\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f xa\u00e7d\u0131r. M\u0259n bel\u0259 bir xa\u00e7\u0131 velosipedimin\u00a0 \u00e7\u0259r\u00e7iv\u0259sind\u0259 c\u0131zd\u0131m.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Erm\u0259nistan\u0131n da\u011fl\u0131q \u0259razil\u0259ri art\u0131q arxada qalm\u0131\u015fd\u0131 v\u0259 biz hamar ideal asfalt yolla Tbilisiy\u0259 do\u011fru gedirdik. B\u00fct\u00fcn yol boyu insanlar biz\u0259 \u0259l yell\u0259yir, yax\u015f\u0131 yol arzulay\u0131r, dayanacaqlarda \u00e7ax\u0131ra qonaq edir, qucaqlay\u0131rd\u0131lar, bir-iki d\u0259f\u0259 \u00f6pd\u00fcl\u0259r d\u0259. Bunun reall\u0131qda ba\u015f verdiyin\u0259 inana bilmirdim. \u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Tbilisi<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

H\u0259min g\u00fcn biz 100 kilometr yolu q\u0259t ed\u0259r\u0259k, qeyri-adi Tbilisi \u015f\u0259h\u0259rin\u0259 g\u0259lib \u00e7\u0131xd\u0131q. D\u00fczd\u00fcr, b\u00f6y\u00fck turist ax\u0131n\u0131na g\u00f6r\u0259 Tbilisi G\u00fcrc\u00fcstan\u0131n \u0259yal\u0259ti q\u0259d\u0259r s\u0259mimi deyil v\u0259 \u00e7ox \u015feyl\u0259r turistl\u0259rin \u0259yl\u0259nm\u0259si \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn n\u0259z\u0259rd\u0259 tutulub. Amma buna baxmayaraq, m\u0259n he\u00e7 bir yerd\u0259 bel\u0259 bir ab-havaya rast g\u0259lm\u0259mi\u015f\u0259m. \u015e\u0259h\u0259rin k\u00f6hn\u0259 rayonlar\u0131 o q\u0259d\u0259r bax\u0131ms\u0131z v\u0259 son d\u0259r\u0259c\u0259d\u0259 q\u0259\u015f\u0259ngdirl\u0259r ki, buna he\u00e7 kim bigan\u0259 qala bilm\u0259z. \u018flb\u0259tt\u0259, biz standart turist proqram\u0131n\u0131 yerin\u0259 yetirm\u0259y\u0259 \u00e7al\u0131\u015fd\u0131q: misal \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn, Abanotubanid\u0259 (hamam m\u0259h\u0259ll\u0259si) \u0259fsan\u0259vi k\u00fck\u00fcrd hamamlar\u0131nda olduq. Bura su hardansa yerin alt\u0131ndan g\u0259lir, bu il\u0131q suyun t\u0259rkibind\u0259 b\u00f6y\u00fck miqdarda k\u00fck\u00fcrd var. Bu c\u00fcr hamamlar \u0130taliyada Tivoli rayonunda v\u0259 \u0130ngilt\u0259r\u0259d\u0259 m\u00f6vcuddur.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Biz bol-bol g\u00fcrc\u00fc yem\u0259yi yedik v\u0259 \u00e7ax\u0131r i\u00e7dik. Yem\u0259k d\u0259, \u00e7ax\u0131r da burada olduqca l\u0259zz\u0259tlidir. \u0130ndi m\u0259n acar xa\u00e7apurisi v\u0259 xinkali \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn \u0259m\u0259lli-ba\u015fl\u0131 dar\u0131x\u0131ram. Yeri g\u0259lmi\u015fk\u0259n, Tbilisid\u0259n d\u0259niz\u0259 t\u0259r\u0259f uzaqla\u015fd\u0131qca, xinkalinin \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcl\u0259ri b\u00f6y\u00fcy\u00fcr, buna g\u00f6r\u0259 d\u0259 onu sifari\u015f ed\u0259rk\u0259n ehtiyatl\u0131 olmaq laz\u0131md\u0131r, yoxsa t\u0259kba\u015f\u0131na \u00f6hd\u0259sind\u0259n g\u0259lm\u0259y\u0259 bil\u0259rsiz.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Hans\u0131sa konkret kafe v\u0259 ya restoranlar\u0131 m\u0259sl\u0259h\u0259t g\u00f6rm\u0259k m\u0259nas\u0131zd\u0131r, \u00e7\u00fcnki burada onlar h\u0259dd\u0259n art\u0131q \u00e7oxdur, ham\u0131s\u0131 da \u0259lad\u0131r. \u015e\u0259h\u0259rd\u0259 g\u0259zm\u0259k ayr\u0131ca l\u0259zz\u0259t verir. Tbilisi s\u00f6z\u00fcn \u0259sl m\u0259nas\u0131nda canl\u0131 v\u0259 faktural\u0131d\u0131r. Biz g\u0259zi\u015fib, \u015f\u0259kil \u00e7\u0259k\u0259rk\u0259n yerli kils\u0259nin ke\u015fi\u015find\u0259n h\u0259diyy\u0259 olaraq ev \u00e7ax\u0131r\u0131 da ald\u0131q, \u00e7ax\u0131r\u0131 biz\u0259 ke\u015fi\u015fin ad\u0131ndan dindar xan\u0131mlardan biri verdi.<\/span><\/p>\n

D\u00fczd\u00fcr, \u015f\u0259h\u0259rd\u0259 velosipedl\u0259 g\u0259zm\u0259k olduqca t\u0259hl\u00fck\u0259lidir, \u00e7\u00fcnki g\u00fcrc\u00fcl\u0259r yol h\u0259r\u0259k\u0259ti qaydalar\u0131n\u0131 tamamil\u0259 iqnor edir: q\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 i\u015f\u0131qda yolu ke\u00e7ir, piyadalara yol vermirl\u0259r. Bir m\u00fcdd\u0259t sonra bir q\u0259d\u0259r adaptasiya olduq v\u0259 yolu yerli sakinl\u0259r kimi ke\u00e7m\u0259y\u0259 ba\u015flad\u0131q \u2013 harda g\u0259ldi, \u0259limizi qaba\u011fa tutaraq ke\u00e7irdik, y\u0259ni \u201cdayan, m\u0259n ke\u00e7ir\u0259m. Bundan ba\u015fqa, m\u0259n bit bazar\u0131na getm\u0259k imkan\u0131n\u0131 da \u0259ld\u0259n \u00a0buraxmad\u0131m, burada Tbilisid\u0259 ke\u00e7iril\u0259n velosiped yar\u0131\u015flar\u0131ndan maraql\u0131 k\u00f6hn\u0259 ni\u015fan tap\u0131b ald\u0131m. \u015e\u0259h\u0259rd\u0259 iki g\u00f6z\u0259l g\u00fcn bir g\u00f6z q\u0131rp\u0131m\u0131 kimi ke\u00e7di.<\/span><\/p>\n

Uplistsixe<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Komandam\u0131z\u0131n \u0259ks\u0259r \u00fczvl\u0259ri ayaqlar\u0131nda Erm\u0259nistanda \u00e7\u0259tinlikl\u0259 ke\u00e7diyimiz 9 faizlik da\u011f y\u00fcks\u0259klikl\u0259rind\u0259n xatir\u0259 olaraq \u201c9% tatusu etdil\u0259r, sonra da G\u00fcrc\u00fcstan\u0131n \u0259n q\u0259dim \u015f\u0259h\u0259rl\u0259rind\u0259n biri olan Qoriy\u0259 yolland\u0131q. Daha do\u011frusu, bizi Qori yax\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda yerl\u0259\u015f\u0259n Uplistsixe adl\u0131 yer maraqland\u0131r\u0131rd\u0131.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Uplistsixe (h\u0259rfi t\u0259rc\u00fcm\u0259si \u2013 \u201cAllah\u0131n qalas\u0131) q\u0259dim ma\u011fara \u015f\u0259h\u0259ri, G\u00fcrc\u00fcstan\u0131n ilk \u015f\u0259h\u0259rl\u0259rind\u0259n biridir. Uplistsixe Qori \u015f\u0259h\u0259rind\u0259n \u015f\u0259rq\u0259 do\u011fru 12 kilometr aral\u0131da, K\u00fcr \u00e7ay\u0131n\u0131n sol sahilind\u0259 yerl\u0259\u015f\u0259n qayada yonulub. XIX \u0259srd\u0259 tamamil\u0259 bo\u015fald\u0131lan \u015f\u0259h\u0259r \u00e7oxt\u0259b\u0259q\u0259li memarl\u0131q obyekti, g\u00fcrc\u00fc m\u0259d\u0259niyy\u0259tinin \u0259n m\u00fch\u00fcm abid\u0259l\u0259rind\u0259n biri say\u0131l\u0131r. Onun unikall\u0131\u011f\u0131 ondad\u0131r ki, \u00f6z qurulu\u015fu say\u0259sind\u0259 \u015f\u0259h\u0259r bir ne\u00e7\u0259 minillik \u0259rzind\u0259 tikil\u0259n memarl\u0131q v\u0259 sitayi\u015f obyektl\u0259rinin qal\u0131qlar\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6z\u00fcnd\u0259 saxlaya bilib. \u00c7i\u00e7\u0259kl\u0259nm\u0259 d\u00f6vr\u00fcnd\u0259 Uplistsixed\u0259 700-d\u0259n \u00e7ox ma\u011fara v\u0259 ma\u011fara tikilil\u0259ri var\u0131yd\u0131, bu g\u00fcn\u0259 q\u0259d\u0259r onlardan yaln\u0131z 150-i qal\u0131b.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

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H\u0259min yer\u0259 ancaq ax\u015fam g\u0259lib \u00e7\u0131xa bildik, \u00e7ad\u0131r d\u00fc\u015f\u0259rg\u0259si \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn m\u00fcnasib yer tap\u0131b, \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131 qurma\u011fa ba\u015flad\u0131q ki, bizi it s\u00fcr\u00fcs\u00fc \u0259hat\u0259y\u0259 ald\u0131, n\u0259tic\u0259d\u0259 onlar b\u00fct\u00fcn gec\u0259ni bizi yax\u0131nl\u0131qda otlayan in\u0259kl\u0259rd\u0259n v\u0259 ba\u015fqa heyvanlardan qorudular, d\u00fcz \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n yan\u0131nda gec\u0259l\u0259dil\u0259r, \u0259v\u0259zind\u0259 is\u0259 biz onlar\u0131 yeml\u0259dik \u2013 m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olan q\u0259d\u0259r. Qayalar\u0131n aras\u0131nda gec\u0259l\u0259m\u0259yin ba\u015fqa bir l\u0259zz\u0259ti var\u0131ym\u0131\u015f. S\u0259h\u0259r d\u0259 y\u0131\u011f\u0131\u015f\u0131b, \u015f\u0259h\u0259r\u0259 baxma\u011fa getdik, ekskursiya r\u0259hb\u0259ri biz\u0259 bu yerl\u0259rin tarixini dan\u0131\u015fmasayd\u0131, b\u00fct\u00fcn bunlar bizim \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn m\u0259nz\u0259r\u0259li da\u015f y\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 v\u0259 qayalarda d\u0259likl\u0259rd\u0259n ba\u015fqa bir \u015fey olmazd\u0131.\u00a0 X\u00fcsusi anbarlarda (kvevrid\u0259) saxlan\u0131lan konus\u015f\u0259killi s\u0259h\u0259ngl\u0259rd\u0259ki \u00e7ax\u0131rlar x\u00fcsusil\u0259 yadda qald\u0131, \u00e7\u00fcnki bu saxlanma \u00fcsulu bir \u00e7ox yerl\u0259rd\u0259 indiy\u0259 q\u0259d\u0259r m\u00f6vcuddir.\u00a0 Bu s\u0259h\u0259ngl\u0259rd\u0259 saxlan\u0131lan \u00e7ax\u0131r \u00e7ox qeyri-adi, tur\u015f v\u0259 qat\u0131 al\u0131n\u0131r. Biz bu \u00e7ax\u0131r\u0131n dad\u0131na muzeyin yan\u0131ndak\u0131 kafed\u0259 baxa bildik. Q\u0259rib\u0259 ad\u0131 olan (Stalber \u2013 \u201cStalber Beriya adlar\u0131n\u0131n q\u0131sald\u0131lm\u0131\u015f var\u0131ant\u0131) olan kafe sahibl\u0259rind\u0259n biri bizi qonaq etdi. Bundan ba\u015fqa m\u0259n \u00e7ox dadl\u0131 g\u00fcrc\u00fc \u00e7akapuli yem\u0259yinin dad\u0131na baxd\u0131m, bu g\u00f6y\u0259rti v\u0259 \u0259dviyyatla bi\u015firilmi\u015f cavan \u0259tdir (t\u0259rc\u00fcm\u0259d\u0259 \u201ck\u00f6p\u00fckl\u00fc \u0259t dem\u0259kdir). \u018ft yey\u0259nl\u0259r\u0259 x\u00fcsusi olaraq m\u0259sl\u0259h\u0259t g\u00f6r\u00fcr\u0259m.<\/span><\/p>\n

Surami v\u0259 Prometey ma\u011faras\u0131<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Yolumuzu Surami t\u0259r\u0259f\u0259 salm\u0131\u015fd\u0131q. H\u0259r \u015fey \u0259vv\u0259lki kimi idi, hamar yol, g\u00fcl\u00fcms\u0259y\u0259r\u0259k biz\u0259 yol k\u0259nar\u0131ndan \u0259l yell\u0259y\u0259n \u00e7obanlar, g\u00f6z\u0259l m\u0259nz\u0259r\u0259l\u0259r v\u0259 pedal\u0131 \u00e7evirm\u0259kd\u0259n ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z endorfin. Xo\u015fb\u0259xtlik \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn daha n\u0259 laz\u0131md\u0131r ki? Surami yax\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda bizd\u0259n \u0259vv\u0259l bura g\u0259lib \u00e7\u0131xan dostlar\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7atanda onlar art\u0131q \u00e7ax\u0131r i\u00e7ir v\u0259 yerli \u00e7ox dadl\u0131, ki\u015fmi\u015f v\u0259 \u0259dviyyatl\u0131 nazuki k\u00f6k\u0259l\u0259ri yeyirdil\u0259r. \u015eirin lava\u015fa ox\u015fayan bu yem\u0259k \u00e7ox l\u0259zz\u0259tli idi. Onlar\u0131 burdan ba\u015fqa daha he\u00e7 yerd\u0259 satm\u0131rlar. \u0130ki ya\u015fl\u0131 centlmen bizi burada qalmaq v\u0259 onlarla birlikd\u0259 \u00e7ax\u0131r i\u00e7m\u0259yimiz \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn dil\u0259 tutma\u011fa \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rd\u0131, amma art\u0131q yola davam etm\u0259li oldu\u011fumuzu, \u0259ks halda qaranl\u0131q d\u00fc\u015f\u0259n\u0259 q\u0259d\u0259r \u00e7ad\u0131r qura bilm\u0259y\u0259c\u0259yimizi onlara uzun-uzad\u0131 izah ed\u0259nd\u0259n sonra bizi a\u015fa\u011f\u0131dak\u0131 s\u00f6zl\u0259rl\u0259 yola sald\u0131lar: \u201cU\u015faqlar, yen\u0259 g\u0259lin, biz el\u0259 burada, bu skamyada oturaca\u011f\u0131q. Bu \u00e7ox xo\u015f idi. Yeri g\u0259lmi\u015fk\u0259n, nazukini biz h\u0259l\u0259 bir ne\u00e7\u0259 g\u00fcn \u0259rzind\u0259 b\u00f6y\u00fck m\u0259mnuniyy\u0259tl\u0259 yedik.<\/span><\/p>\n

Bir yerd\u0259 onlarla avtomobil v\u0259 furalar\u0131n aras\u0131nda getm\u0259k ist\u0259m\u0259diyimiz \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn k\u0259ndaras\u0131 yola d\u00f6nd\u00fck. MAPS.ME orada yolun oldu\u011funu g\u00f6st\u0259rirdi, n\u0259tic\u0259d\u0259 be\u015f n\u0259f\u0259r 40 kilometr eni\u015fli-yoxu\u015flu k\u0259nd yolu il\u0259 s\u00fcrd\u00fck, velosipedl\u0259rimizin salamat qalaca\u011f\u0131na ancaq \u00fcmid etm\u0259k qal\u0131rd\u0131. Yol \u0259m\u0259lli-ba\u015fl\u0131 silk\u0259l\u0259yirdi, \u015fose velosipedi is\u0259 bu yollar \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn n\u0259z\u0259rd\u0259 tutulmay\u0131b. Bu igidliyimizin m\u00fckafat\u0131 qeyri-adi m\u0259nz\u0259r\u0259l\u0259r v\u0259 yolda qar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131xan g\u00f6z\u0259l akveduk, h\u0259m d\u0259 da\u011flar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan ke\u00e7\u0259n d\u0259mir yolu v\u0259 tikilm\u0259kd\u0259 olan tunelin g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcl\u0259ri oldu.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Ba\u015f \u00e7\u0259km\u0259k ist\u0259diyimiz daha bir vacib yer Sxaltubo \u015f\u0259h\u0259rinin yax\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda yerl\u0259\u015f\u0259n Kumistavi karst ma\u011faras\u0131 v\u0259 ya Prometey ma\u011faras\u0131 idi. Ma\u011faran\u0131n \u00fcmumi uzunlu\u011fu 11 kilometrdir, bura g\u0259l\u0259nl\u0259r is\u0259 onun ancaq 1060 metrini g\u00f6r\u0259 bilir. Bu ma\u011fara \u00e7ox populyard\u0131, burada h\u0259tta toy ke\u00e7irm\u0259k d\u0259 olar.<\/span><\/p>\n

Ma\u011fara \u00e7ox maraql\u0131 bir yerdir, d\u00fczd\u00fcr, baya\u011f\u0131n r\u0259ngar\u0259ng i\u015f\u0131qlanmas\u0131 v\u0259 n\u0259s\u0259 nam\u0259lum s\u0259sli lazer-\u015fou onun g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u0259 ancaq x\u0259l\u0259l yetirir. H\u0259r \u015feyi oldu\u011fu kimi, he\u00e7 bir m\u00fcdaxil\u0259 etm\u0259d\u0259n saxlasayd\u0131lar daha yax\u015f\u0131 olard\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

Biz t\u0259rk edilimi\u015f Nokalakevi qalas\u0131n\u0131n \u0259razisind\u0259 gec\u0259l\u0259m\u0259k ist\u0259yirdik, bu, Q\u0259rbi G\u00fcrc\u00fcstanda Senaki b\u0259l\u0259diyy\u0259sind\u0259 yerl\u0259\u015f\u0259n qala \u015f\u0259h\u0259ri, Eqrisinin paytaxt\u0131d\u0131r. Bura r\u0259vay\u0259t\u0259 g\u00f6r\u0259, arqonavtlar\u0131n \u00fcz\u00fcb g\u0259ldiyi \u0259fsan\u0259vi Aya \u015f\u0259h\u0259rinin yeridir. Biz bura g\u0259lib \u00e7atanda m\u0259lum oldu ki, \u0259razi \u00e7\u0259p\u0259rl\u0259nib v\u0259 orada \u00e7ad\u0131r qurmaq he\u00e7 c\u00fcr al\u0131nmayacaq. Biz\u0259 s\u0259h\u0259r g\u0259lib, h\u0259r \u015fey\u0259 baxma\u011f\u0131 t\u0259klif etdil\u0259r. Bir q\u0259d\u0259r p\u0259rt v\u0259ziyy\u0259td\u0259 biz ir\u0259li, k\u00f6rp\u00fcn\u00fcn arxas\u0131na t\u0259r\u0259f ged\u0259r\u0259k, d\u00fcz kimins\u0259 evl\u0259rinin v\u0259 h\u0259y\u0259tl\u0259rinin yan\u0131nda\u00a0 \u00e7ad\u0131r d\u00fc\u015f\u0259rg\u0259si qurmaq \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn \u00e7ox m\u00fcnasib yer tapd\u0131q.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Bir ne\u00e7\u0259 saat sonra m\u0259n m\u0259lum olmayan s\u0259s, it v\u0259 avtomobil m\u00fch\u0259rrikl\u0259rinin s\u0259sin\u0259 oyand\u0131m. Bir q\u0259d\u0259r sonra s\u0259s-k\u00fcy k\u0259sildi v\u0259 m\u0259n yuxuya ged\u0259 bildim. S\u0259h\u0259r yen\u0259 d\u0259 s\u0259s\u0259 oyand\u0131m. \u00c7ad\u0131rdan boylan\u0131b g\u00f6rd\u00fcm ki, s\u0259s-k\u00fcy\u0259 s\u0259b\u0259b qazanlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n dibind\u0259n d\u00fcn\u0259nki yem\u0259yin qal\u0131qalar\u0131n\u0131 axtaran\u00a0 in\u0259kl\u0259r v\u0259 donuzlard\u0131. Bir q\u0259d\u0259r sonra \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n quruma\u011fa qoydu\u011fumuz tentl\u0259rini \u00e7eyn\u0259y\u0259n in\u0259kl\u0259ri bir az da b\u00f6y\u00fck s\u0259yl\u0259 qovma\u011fa \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanda, \u00e7\u0259p\u0259rin o \u00fcz\u00fcnd\u0259n kims\u0259 g\u00f6r\u00fcnd\u00fc.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130n\u0259kl\u0259rini qovma\u011fa \u00e7al\u0131\u015fd\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z v\u0259 otla\u011f\u0131nda \u00e7ad\u0131r qurdu\u011fumuz \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn bizi danlayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcm.<\/span><\/p>\n

N\u0259tic\u0259d\u0259 is\u0259 h\u0259r \u015fey tam \u0259ksin\u0259 al\u0131nd\u0131. Adam d\u00fcn\u0259n ad g\u00fcn\u00fc oldu\u011funu v\u0259 buran\u0131n onun ba\u011f evi oldu\u011funu izah etdi, o burada \u00fcz\u00fcm yeti\u015fdirirmi\u015f. D\u00fcn\u0259nki s\u0259s-k\u00fcy\u0259 g\u00f6r\u0259 \u00fczr ist\u0259di, dedi ki, burada oldu\u011fumuzu bils\u0259ydi, bizi d\u0259 qonaql\u0131\u011fa d\u0259v\u0259t ed\u0259rdi. Bundan sonra harasa gedib, \u0259lind\u0259 \u00e7ox dadl\u0131 ev \u00e7ax\u0131r\u0131 v\u0259 sininin i\u00e7i il\u0259 dolu yem\u0259kl\u0259 qay\u0131td\u0131. Biz d\u0259 onunla birlikd\u0259 s\u0259h\u0259r yem\u0259yini yeyib, xatir\u0259 \u015f\u0259kill\u0259ri \u00e7\u0259kdirdik. T\u0259z\u0259 tan\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131z biz\u0259 yax\u0131nl\u0131qda, d\u00fcz yerin alt\u0131ndan vuran isti bulaqlara da ba\u015f \u00e7\u0259km\u0259yi m\u0259sl\u0259h\u0259t g\u00f6rd\u00fc. Nokalaverinin xarabal\u0131qlar\u0131n\u0131 g\u0259z\u0259nd\u0259n sonra, ora da getdik.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Betlem – ona ba\u015f \u00e7\u0259km\u0259y\u0259 d\u0259y\u0259r. \u0130sti su d\u00fcz yerin alt\u0131ndan vurur, buradaca du\u015fa b\u0259nz\u0259r, sad\u0259 hamam yerl\u0259ri d\u00fcz\u0259ldibl\u0259r.<\/span><\/p>\n

Senaki v\u0259 Batumi<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Yolumuzu Senakid\u0259n sald\u0131q, kafenin yan\u0131nda duran bir y\u0131\u011f\u0131n velisopedi g\u00f6r\u0259n t\u0259sad\u00fcfi adam bizd\u0259n kim oldu\u011fumuzu v\u0259 haradan g\u0259ldiyimizi x\u0259b\u0259r ald\u0131. Aram\u0131zda q\u0131zlar\u0131n oldu\u011funu g\u00f6r\u0259nd\u0259 v\u0259 onlar\u0131n velosipedd\u0259, a\u011f\u0131r \u00e7antalarla 600 kilometr\u0259 yax\u0131n m\u0259saf\u0259ni q\u0259t etdikl\u0259rini bil\u0259nd\u0259n sonra is\u0259 \u0259m\u0259lli-ba\u015fl\u0131 \u015foka d\u00fc\u015fd\u00fc. Bir az g\u00f6zl\u0259m\u0259yimizi xahi\u015f edib, i\u00e7i pirojki il\u0259 dolu iki b\u00f6y\u00fck paket g\u0259tirdi v\u0259 dedi: \u201cBu, sizin \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnd\u00fcn u\u015faqlar! Yax\u015f\u0131 yol siz\u0259! Bel\u0259likl\u0259 d\u0259 biz dar\u0131xd\u0131r\u0131c\u0131 v\u0259 maraql\u0131 he\u00e7 n\u0259 olmayan Poti liman \u015f\u0259h\u0259rin\u0259 g\u0259lib \u00e7\u0131xd\u0131q.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130ki d\u0259f\u0259 bizi polis ma\u015f\u0131n\u0131 m\u00fc\u015fayi\u0259t etdi. Birinci ma\u015f\u0131n bekar\u00e7\u0131l\u0131qdan, ikincisi is\u0259 (ba\u015fqa n\u00f6v polis, \u0130taliyada polis v\u0259 karabinerl\u0259r oldu\u011fu kimi) polis \u0259m\u0259kda\u015flar\u0131ndan birinin kar\u0131xm\u0131\u015f sif\u0259tind\u0259 a\u00e7\u0131q-a\u015fkar ifad\u0259 olunan narahatl\u0131qdan bizi m\u00fc\u015fayi\u0259t edirdil\u0259r. Polis \u0259m\u0259kda\u015flar\u0131 biz\u0259 ba\u015fa sald\u0131lar ki, bu rayonda \u00e7ad\u0131r qurmaq t\u0259hl\u00fck\u0259lidir, \u00e7\u00fcnki b\u0259zi xo\u015fag\u0259lm\u0259z hadis\u0259l\u0259r ba\u015f verib.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\u018fks\u0259riyy\u0259timiz \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn bu velotripin final n\u00f6qt\u0259si Batumi idi, burada biz bir ne\u00e7\u0259 g\u00f6z\u0259l g\u00fcn ke\u00e7irib, acar xa\u00e7apurisi v\u0259 d\u0259nizd\u0259n h\u0259zz ald\u0131q. Burada da m\u0259n \u201cTitanik adl\u0131 \u0259lim boyda n\u0259h\u0259ng acar xa\u00e7apurisi g\u00f6rd\u00fcm. O\u011flanlar onu be\u015f n\u0259f\u0259r\u0259 d\u0259 yeyib qurtara bilm\u0259dil\u0259r. Acar xa\u00e7apurisini Batumid\u0259 ham\u0131n\u0131n \u2013 panklardan tutmu\u015f polisl\u0259r\u0259 q\u0259d\u0259r biz\u0259 m\u0259sl\u0259h\u0259t g\u00f6rd\u00fcy\u00fc \u201cRetro kafesind\u0259 yem\u0259k laz\u0131md\u0131r. Batumid\u0259 \u015f\u0259h\u0259ri v\u0259 d\u0259niz sahilini g\u0259z\u0259r\u0259k, g\u00f6z\u0259l vaxt ke\u00e7irdik. Botanika ba\u011f\u0131n\u0131 x\u00fcsusil\u0259 qeyd etm\u0259k ist\u0259yir\u0259m. Qrupumuzdan d\u00f6rd n\u0259f\u0259r buradan da T\u00fcrkiy\u0259y\u0259 yolland\u0131lar, bizim \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcns\u0259 bu s\u0259yah\u0259t Batumi aeroportunda bitdi, evimiz\u0259 bizi aparacaq t\u0259yyar\u0259y\u0259 h\u0259v\u0259ssiz minirdik.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

G\u00fcrc\u00fcstan m\u0259n\u0259 \u00e7ox d\u0259rin t\u0259sir ba\u011f\u0131\u015flad\u0131 v\u0259 m\u00fcbali\u011f\u0259siz dey\u0259 bil\u0259r\u0259m ki, bura oldu\u011fum \u0259n g\u00f6z\u0259l \u00f6lk\u0259l\u0259rd\u0259n biridir. Onun t\u0259bi\u0259ti, m\u0259tb\u0259xi, h\u0259dd\u0259n \u00e7ox mehriban v\u0259 qonaqp\u0259rv\u0259r insanlar\u0131 \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcn \u00e7ox dar\u0131x\u0131ram. G\u00fcrc\u00fcstan sevginin \u00f6z\u00fcd\u00fcr.<\/span><\/p>\n

D\u0259rc edilib: 06.07.2016<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00a0S\u0259rh\u0259di ke\u00e7\u0259nd\u0259n be\u015f d\u0259qiq\u0259 sonra art\u0131q bu \u00f6lk\u0259l\u0259r aras\u0131ndak\u0131 f\u0259rqi g\u00f6r\u00fcrs\u0259n\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":19328,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[27,41,67,8,2,3,25,62,46,36,71,35,61],"tags":[],"formation":[],"post-author":[],"topic":[5475],"tooltip":[],"city":[],"class_list":["post-3991","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ermnistan","category-silsillr","category-ylnc","category-dunyada-bas-vernlr","category-cografiya","category-gurcustan","category-cmiyyt","category-lifestyle","category-fotohvalat","category-multimedia","category-idman","category-hekaylr","category-syaht","topic-qafqaza-sfrlr"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nErm\u0259nistandan G\u00fcrc\u00fcstana velosipedl\u0259 - JAMnews<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/jam-news.net\/az\/erm\u0259nistandan-gurcustana-velosipedl\u0259\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"az_AZ\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Erm\u0259nistandan G\u00fcrc\u00fcstana velosipedl\u0259 - 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